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October 06, 2006

Like riding a bike


  our dutch bikes
  Originally uploaded by emira.

The best 50 Euros we spent in Amsterdam (aside from our lovely B & B) were definitely dedicated to our bike rental. By the afternoon of our first day, after watching a constant stream of clunky old bikes glide down every street/canal we were itching for our own set of wheels. Our rented bicycles weren't much to behold: basic Gazelle's with back pedal brakes, no speeds, front baskets and two locks each. Both navy blue. Both prone to making random clanking/squeeking/rattle noises. They fit right in.

Neither Martin or I count ourselves as hard core cyclists here in Vancouver. Though here that often looks like someone who wears a lot of very serious bike gear on their state of the art road/mountain or hybrid city bike. But, we do like to ride our bikes. All things considered equal, when given the transportation choices of driving, taking the bus or cycling, cycling usually wins out for at least 6 months of the year (we'll admit to having been pretty fair weather about our cycle devotion in the past). All this to say, we weren't really looking for a "cycling holiday" but the idea of riding these trusty bikes around such a damn fine city in uncharacteristically balmy weather with nothing much to do but pedal from one gallery/shop/park to another stopping for plenty of coffee/beer/wine in between was shear bliss. And how could it not be?  In a city where bikes seem to far out-number cars, where cars actually yield to bikes (no really), and where even pedestrians who get in the way of the city's 400 km of bike paths aren't let off the hook, there is no finer vantage point for taking in the city than on two clunky old wheels.

The only danger of the hypnotic bliss of Amsterdam cycling in the false sense of security and ease it gives you. I say security because as I mentioned the cars, they stop. For bikes. For real. Sure some drivers aren't so considerate, but easily 9 out of 10 times cars back off so you can pass. Back here in Vancouver or even in Copenhagen: not so much. And then of course there's the ease. The ease seems almost unreal when you first set out on your built-like-a-tank "Gazelle" granny bike, but  before you know it, your gliding along, wind in  your hair, effortless and  no where close to breaking out in a sweat. This of course has *everything* to do with the topography of the city (which is also true of Copenhagen and in fact pretty much the entire country of Denmark) which is in a word flat. Really, actually quite flat. And so, even cobblestones do not slow you down as you glide from one end of town to the other in style. This of course is the reason why you don't see anyone decked out in high-tech bike gear, but rather in only the chicest of attire, high heels and all, cel phone in one hand, cigarette in the other. Minus that last bit it was sheer bliss.

Martin has some awesome photos of the bike parkade at the Central Train Station (four storeys of bikes, bikes, bikes), which you almost have to see to believe. I'm going to try to finish uploading both my own and some of his photos this weekend, so I'll link that then.

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Comments

When my boyfriend and I vacationed in Scandinavia about two years ago we noticed the same exact things!

I'd definitely agree with you about the baby boom. We saw babies with (what appeared to be well off) young couples everywhere!

In Oslo we were delighted to see that drivers actually stopped for pedestrians (something that doesn't happen here, even if you're lucky!) and didn't seem to be annoyed. It was quite the welcome change.

I'm glad you had a good time. My trip to the Scandinavian countries were something I will never forget and it's so nice to see others experiencing the same thing. I think those countries are often passed over in favor of more exotic locales like Venice and Tuscany, few realize how beautiful, say, Bergen can be!

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